The rush of Vintgar Gorge

There is a whisper of water that gently mists my face, speckling my glasses as I make my way towards the quiet roar a few feet away. I breathe in the fresh Slovenian air, and let the sheer beauty of the clear Radovna River cascading down, down, down into a rainbow, against a blue morning skyContinue reading “The rush of Vintgar Gorge”

Finding peace in Piran

I sit in the front passenger seat of the white Roundabout van as we whir through the Slovenian countryside, passing the lush green rolling hills and striking vistas of the Karst region (and where we had just explored the Škocjan Cave) and criss-cross between towering mountains. We go through a tunnel and in an instant,Continue reading “Finding peace in Piran”

In Earth’s belly: the Škocjan Cave

The droplets of water plunk down from the damp ceiling, ploink. Ploink. It sounds like a dripping faucet in a vacuum of silence as we all stand, meters below the surface of the earth, eyes adjusting to the nearly black surroundings. Ploink. Ploink. Ploink. It’s cold down here. Far colder than the day I envisionedContinue reading “In Earth’s belly: the Škocjan Cave”

Behind bars in Ljubljana: Hostel Celica review

You’d think sleeping inside a former military prison would be creepy. I even ask the manager of the property as she guides me down the dark, damp stairs to where solitary confinement used to be, a stone cave-like basement, if it is haunted. She chuckles and responds with a simple “no.” In fact, other thanContinue reading “Behind bars in Ljubljana: Hostel Celica review”

Mourning and the Adriatic

One of the last memories I have of the Adriatic Sea is standing on its rocky shore in Trogir, Croatia, bending down and picking up a smooth stone to take back to America with me. To place on my grandmother’s freshly dug grave. It was a beautiful day in September. Blue sky. Bluer water. And,Continue reading “Mourning and the Adriatic”

Returning to the world of solo travel

I step into my salmon pink room at Affittacamere alls Stazione where the smell of stale smoke lingers and am brought back to another time along the shore of the Adriatic Sea. Apparently, the only person in this little guest house tucked into the third floor 150 meters from the train station, I am thankfulContinue reading “Returning to the world of solo travel”

Daily Wanderlust: St. Mark’s Basilica

Just beyond the two pillars marking the entrance to Venezia, or Venice, is the glorious St. Mark’s Basilica. Containing the remains of St. Mark, this church is considered to be one of the most important places in both Venice’s past and present. Located next to the Perisan-influenced Doje’s Palace along the lagoon of the city, theContinue reading “Daily Wanderlust: St. Mark’s Basilica”

Escape of the Week: the Church of Bones

What to do with exhumed skeletons of more than 14,000 bodies from the time of the Black Plague? For woodcarver František Rint, the grisly task was his to handle the bones nearly 300 years after a half-blind monk unearthed them. The result? The Sedlec Ossuary, or the Church of Bones. Located about an hour train rideContinue reading “Escape of the Week: the Church of Bones”

The lure of Prague

There is a history in Prague — and the rest of Europe — which suspends these places in time. Freezes them in moments only my brain can whisk me to. Old communists blocks in Eastern Europe, bombed out buildings in the former Yugoslavia which wear their pock marks like badges of honor, of a reminderContinue reading “The lure of Prague”

‘Twas the night before Europe

“You won’t make it a month …” Those ominous words echo in my mind, 12 years after I took my first longer-than-a-vacation jaunt to Europe. People were actually rooting for my failure. My lack of ability to travel solo for any length of time. They were right. I didn’t make it a month. But, notContinue reading “‘Twas the night before Europe”