It took me an instant to fall in love with Split. And even less time to realize my traveling days were in front of me, not in the past (thanks to a certain person who provided instantaneous enlightenment).
Nearly one year after I left Split, I found myself back in this seaside town, life entirely different. The first thing I did was track down the person who changed my life — I had to tell him “thank you.”
The second thing I did? Sit back, smile and relish in the beauty of the moment, the beauty of the town (including the laundry hanging from the ancient windows), and the beauty of travel.
Despite the threat of rain and the gray clouds hanging low to our heads, Katie and I have no problem dipping into the luxurious pool at Rachamankha on my first full day at the property. It’s east coast hot and humid.
“What’s your plan?” Katie asks me as we cool our bodies in the water. She’d surprised me a week earlier, when I first arrived to Chiang Mai and was suffering from jet lag. But, our relationship extends back a year earlier, when I was in Sarajevo and in need of help, in need of a friend.
Blinking the water from my eyelashes, I slick my hair back, and look at her.
My plan?
I have no idea.
In an instant, I stammer. One of my best travel friends in the universe has caught me off-guard. Called me out on all of my talk of travel and not staying in one place in a conventional lifestyle.
“D, you say you don’t want to stay in Vegas, so what’s your plan?”
I don’t know.
I falter.
“To move to Thailand, I guess,” I throw out.
My new home?
After all, I knew when I booked my trip to Thailand, I wasn’t just going to volunteer with the elephants. I was scouting Chiang Mai to see if it would make a suitable home.
At a quick few days into my time in the city, I wasn’t sold on it. But, I wasn’t writing it off, either.
“Well, when?”
I don’t know.
“I guess this winter?”
“OK, good.”
“I guess …”
“D, what’s stopping you?” Katie asks, hinting at frustration.
“My cats … money …”
“Those are just excuses.”
I blink. She’s right and I know it.
What IS stopping me?
I don’t have an answer.
“Well, I’m going to say this. If you want to go, you should go. Figure your shit out and leave Vegas. I don’t know why you stay there anyway. It’s not you.”
And, I know she’s right.
For the next four days, I wander through Chiang Mai. Exploring. Getting lost. Trying to imagine myself living in this city.
Could this be my home?
I try to fall in love with the town. To see what other ex-pats see when they come through here.
But, the town isn’t what really calls to me. It’s the elephants.
On my last night, when one of the volunteers gives me a hug goodbye, she whispers in my ear: “I hope all of your dreams come true.”
My eyes water as I whisper goodbye to her and I sit there. Dumbfounded.
Everything isn't always illuminated ...
What are my dreams these days?
Hours before I depart back to Las Vegas, it’s rainy (as per usual) and I’m not looking forward to the long-haul flight back to America. Lucy, the last remaining volunteer in Chiang Mai, and I, head out to help me find a ride back to the airport.
When I convince a tuk tuk driver to drop me for 70 baht, we say our goodbyes and I hop into the open-backed vehicle. As we drive past the moat, the sky opens more, pelting my face with sideways rain.
Like I had done in the pool a few days early, I blink the water away, looking out. Concentrating. Trying … trying so hard … to figure out the next steps in my life.
As I board the flight to Bangkok, I look out towards the lush green mountains shrouded in clouds.
The quaint mountain town of Veliko Tarnovo is a far cry from the tourist-packed Sunny Beach and the charming Varna along the Black Sea.
I never expected to stay for as long as I did in this town. But, when Abby left to return to Istanbul, I decided to hunker down, soak up the air-con and laid-back vibe, drink some rose water (and other yummy rose-flavored beverages) and savor some quiet before heading to the Adriatic.
A top the town is an ancient fortress. While Abby was with me, we tried to get some culture, but were rained out. The next day, we returned under the blistering summer sun and explored the ruins of what was once a mighty fortress.
I spent about two weeks in Bosnia and Hercegovina and loved every moment.
When I wasn’t hanging out in Sarajevo, or exploring the remnants of war and a sniper’s point of view from an old bank, I was touring the gorgeous outlying region of Mostar, including a gorgeous visit to waterfalls.
After my para-falling incident, I opted not to do any jumps from cliffs or rocks or anything, but loved watching everyone else take running leaps into the refreshing water below.
Editor’s Note: This is a guest post by Josh Keefe.
Always befriend locals when traveling.
This is obvious advice, but it usually involves a little more than just smiling and saying “please” and “thank you” in the native language. It requires being a bit proactive and chatting up strangers. This is not just a good idea because you can find the best bar or restaurant from a local.
Sometimes being friendly to locals can actually keep you out of danger.
Doing your best to make sure people see you as a human being instead of a walking wallet can really increase your safety.
This starts with chatting up cab drivers. Cabdrivers usually know where they’re bringing you, and they have a much better idea than you of exactly what the situation is going to be when you get there.
One Tuesday night in Puerto Escondido, a cab driver was taking us to a shady after hours bar we had heard about that apparently was attached to a whore house. As we chatted him up and talked about the area he became less surly and more talkative. Eventually we were laughing with him. Finally he slammed on the brakes, turned to us, and told us that there was simply no way he could bring us there in good conscience. It was way, way, too dangerous for gringos, he said. We thanked him and ended the night somewhere a little more tame. Of course, we tipped him well.
Don’t be afraid of handing out money. A bum could save your life.
To wit:
I was in Montreal years ago, before I even considered myself a Flashpacker, and my cousin and I ended up drunkenly separated from the group we had come with. We also had no idea where our hotel was. A bum approached us and asked us for money. All we had left on us was five dollars, not enough for a cab. We gave it to him, and asked if he could tell us how to get to our hotel. He said he would walk us there. We thought this was very nice of him; we also figured he had nothing else to do.
We walked and we asked him about Montreal. He told us about his city, and the conversation soon become more personal, and he detailed some of the bad breaks that led him to a life on the street. By the end of our twenty minute walk, I really liked the guy, although I like everybody when I’m drunk. But still.
We reached the end of the street where our hotel was. We saw the sign, and thanked him profusely.
“No,” he told us. “I’ll walk you there.”
“Um, okay,” we said. The hotel was a block away. We could clearly see it. Now his willingness to walk us back seemed a bit shady. Was he going to try and come in with us?
We were just about at the door when we passed the alley next to the hotel. I turned and looked down the alley and a man who looked both homeless and incredibly aggressive was sprinting at us from the darkness.
Our man put out his hand in a “stop” motion towards what I assume was a would-be attacker, and said very sternly:
“No! Not these two.”
The attacker stopped immediately and turned and went back into the alley. Our man looked at us and wished us good night as we stood there shocked and confused. Then he turned and walked away.
So be nice to bums. Especially when they have Obi-Wan Kenobi powers.
About the Author:JoshKeefe is a 27-year-old writer/blogger for Flashpackerguy.com and Locationlessliving.com who, up until recentl,y coordinated food delivery systems for a living (he was a waiter). He has also worked in the fashion industry (in a Laundromat). Find him on Twitter, Facebook, or RSS.
I always knew as soon as I got to the Adriatic Sea in my travels, I would feel invigorated again. It’s not easy to travel solo for months on end, and after my time in Turkey, I had hit a wall. Hello, Travel Fatigue.
Fortunately, after one very long travel day, as soon as I arrived to Montenegro, I got back into the swing of being a backpacker. While in the gorgeous town of Budva, I met a little group of awesome people and we went on excursions together. Including a beautiful day trip to Kotor.
Tiny wooden boats of different colors are parked against everything in the Kotor Bay … including bridges and pipes.
Editor’s Note: This is a guest post by Shanna Schultz.
I could spend hours wandering the Royal Mile in Edinburgh, Scotland. The Royal Mile is the street that runs from the foot of Edinburgh Castle to Holyrood Palace at the other end (the Palace is the residence of the Queen when she is in Scotland.) It is divided up into four sections: Castlehill, Lawnmarket, High Street and Cannon Gate.
Even with all of the souvenir shops and the hordes of tourists, the Royal Mile never fails to transport me back in time with its cobblestone streets and stone buildings. It is a city that has been very careful to preserve its historical character. You will know what I mean after you have a chance to wander its length. You are surrounded by history as you meander slowly from Edinburgh Castle to Holyrood Palace, about a mile in total.
How can you not love a street that is crowned with such a beautiful jewel as Edinburgh castle? Any proper visit to the Royal Mile should start with a visit to Edinburgh Castle. Edinburgh Castle dominates the Edinburgh skyline, and it is one of our very favorite castles in Europe! St. Margaret’s Chapel, the oldest building in Edinburgh Castle, dates back to the 12th century.
If you are looking for information about events and shows in Edinburgh, make a stop just outside of the Edinburgh Castle Esplanade at The Hub. This spot is the headquarters for the Edinburgh Festival, as well as the ticket office for many smaller shows and festivals in Edinburgh. It is a one-stop shop for finding out what is going on around town!
As you proceed down the castle esplanade and onto the Royal Mile, make sure you stop and do the tourist thing and listen to the music played by the bagpipers who are usually setup around this area, playing popular Scottish favorites. Throw a few coins in their case and then make a short detour from the Royal Mile to the Grassmarket.
The Grassmarket is located just southeast of the castle. It is called Grassmarket because it was the primary area within town for grazing sheep and cattle until 1911. Today, there are no sheep or cattle here, but there are many nice cafes, pubs and artsy little shops. Stop for lunch in one of the cafes, or bring a picnic lunch and eat it in the pleasant open area at the center of the square.
Lawnmarket is the small stretch of the Royal Mile between Castlehill and High Street. Make a stop at the Jolly Judge Pub off of Lawnmarket in James court for a pint or two to refresh your spirit and rest your feet, weary after a long morning of sightseeing. This authentic, wooden beamed pub has a great selection of ales and ciders and a great, welcoming pub atmosphere.
As you continue down the Royal Mile onto High Street, make a stop to take an iconic Edinburgh photo of the spires of St. Giles Cathedral on the High Street. Near the west end of St. Giles cathedral is the Heart of Midlothian. This used to be the center of taxation and justice in Edinburgh (a place that was not very well liked), and you can still see the citizens of Edinburgh spit on this spot as they walk by.
TIP: If you are in need of a bathroom break after your stop at the pub, the Museum of Childhood is located in the high street section of the Royal Mile. The museum is free, and has clean restrooms.
I enjoy the comforting, familiar feeling of being surrounded by old stone walls as I venture down an unfamiliar close, the thrill of discovery of a hidden garden or great new pub just around the next corner.
BONUS: If you can time your visit to Edinburgh to coincide with the three weeks of the Edinburgh Fringe Festival in August, you will be able to experience the best that Edinburgh has to offer. The Royal Mile becomes filled with great street performers and artists, and it takes on a very carnival like atmosphere. If you are interested in theater or music, there are literally hundreds of plays and shows going on around town, many of them free. If you don’t mind a few extra people in Edinburgh with you during this time, it is a great time to visit the city!
About the Author: Shanna Schultz is the owner of There and Back Again Travel Blog.She is also a travel professional in the airline and hotel industries. Shanna lives in Lonsdale, Minn. and enjoys cooking and gardening. Her favorite places to travel are Scotland and France. Connect with Shanna on Facebook, Twitter and Google Plus.
Of all of the towns I have visited in my travels, there are very few I can say I did not enjoy. Sadly, Kusadasi, Turkey, is one of those towns.
What did I not like? The town itself is fine. It’s a total tourist town. Cruise ships on the Aegean Sea pop in every day or so, making it a lively place by night. And by lively, I mean drunk tourists looking to hook-up. And drunk locals looking to do the hooking-up. Which is fine.
But, for me, I had a hard time here. I took a job I should not have taken, was fired, and then, for the first time in my travels, truly scared. The cast of characters in my six days here was unique, and the stories, although not always good, are certainly ones I will remember forever. (For an added laugh/roll of eyes, be sure to read this note after you’ve read the other links.)
For me, this town was where I kind of unraveled during my long-term travel.
And while I would never return here, I have to say one thing: the sunsets … stunning.
Would you still go through with an item on your bucket list if it hurt someone or something?
Do you think about your impact as a tourist before you make your plans?
This Friday at 10 a.m. Eastern Time, join me and Pamela MacNaughtan as we host a special Twitter chat on ethical travel with Travel + Escape.
Pamela’s live tweeting from Elephant Nature Park. I’m live tweeting from Las Vegas. Join us to share your experiences, thoughts and to learn about ethical travel, particularly as it relates to elephants and tourism in Thailand (including some special guests!).
There is something magical about Istanbul. It’s mix of east-meets-west. The way the old merges with the new. The corn vendors on the side of the road, even at high noon on a hot summer day.
I spent weeks in the city, playing tourist, relaxing, searching desperately for air-con when the summer heat became unbearable.
I particularly loved the view along the Bosphorus, the way Taksim, at sunset, twinkled against the pinkish night sky.
D Travels 'Round 