Omaha: somewhere (awesome) in Middle America

“Why are you going to Omaha?”

Nearly every person who I told about my road trip asked in the days leading up to the cross-country adventure.

It’s an easy answer, really: two of my closest friends who know me very well told me to go. That’s it. There was no research. There was no hemming or hawing. It was simple. They said “go.” I put it on the itinerary.

So, trusting them, Erica and I pulled up to Howard Street in Downtown Omaha. Running perpendicular to the river, Howard Street is this little hamlet of quaint, restaurant-lined adorableness.

Old brick buildings baring marks of decades past with faded paint and rickety awnings give way to a patio-lined street on a brick road dotted with restaurants and bars with ample outdoor dining to take in the summer weather. And, as Erica and I sit at one of the town’s award-winning (and inexpensive) restaurants, Indian Oven, we are delighted at the charm this city oozes.

People here are friendly. Even when a driver cuts me off as we turn out of Super 8 and onto the main road, she waves, smiles apologetically and keeps going. (Which of course delights the two of us, resulting in comments to the extent of “Oh, what a sweetheart!”)

When we walk inside the restaurant to take the obligatory photos, Erica and I meet Kim Reid Kuhn, a local artist who is about to have a show there.

As we look at her work, she politely asks us if we would like to see her studio down the street.

Of course, we oblige.

 

Kimberly, along with another artist, Sarah Rowe, guide us on a walk past antique shops, vintage stores and restaurants, before we arrive to her studio. The old building with brick walls and corridors that end with huge windows letting in blankets of light, is home to numerous studios and apartments.

We enter her space and both of us smile with delight.

We are in Omaha. And have already met people to make this trip memorable.

“You all want to come out with us tonight?” Kimberly asks as we walk around her studio, taking in her latest work — a huge piece of canvas secured to the wall. “We can show you all of the cool dive bars in town.”

Erica looks at me like she just got the best present in the world — eyes wide, smile encompassing her entire face. I am pretty sure her delight at being asked mimics mine.

Why, yes. Yes, we do.

We spend a few more minutes chatting with the two artists, learning about their work and marveling at their talents, and then head out.

Later that night, after dinner and a quick walk through a little slice of downtown, we find ourselves sipping PBR for $1.75 in Midtown at a punk rock bar, Brother’s Lounge.

The bathroom at Brother’s, complete with a false lash.

“Let’s do this tour!” Kimberly exclaims as we scoot out of the first bar and head to the next, Bud Olson Bar.

When we pull up and parallel park in front of the bar, she give us a friendly warning.

“This bar … it is old men and old hookers, plus an ugly mural in the back room and birthday cake on the ceiling.”

You have to see it to believe it.

We walk into Olson’s and the smell of cat piss permeates the air. Tonight, there aren’t many old men or old hookers there. But, just walking in and sitting at the long, smelly bar seems oddly comfortable. It is a neighborhood bar, a place that has long since vanished from many cities I have visited.

Kim and Sarah know the bartender and when we go in the back to take photos of the mural, no one questions us or our loud laughter.

Then, it’s on to the last stop of the night, Oleavers, a “club” with a mix of artists, musicians and hipsters.

“Careful, you can get an STD here just by taking off your shoes,” Kim warns, laughing.

Yes, I did sit on this chair.

For a couple of hours, Kim, Sarah, Erica and I hold court at the bar, learning about the music and art culture in Omaha. We chat with the bartender, a skinny guy with thinning hair and a full beard who wears a red and blue tasselled shirt and proudly pulls out a calendar featuring the Oleavers staff. His photo instantly draws smiles. He’s perched on a motorcycle, shirtless, doing his best “rawr,” complete with a come hither look.

When it is time to go, the owner of the bar takes us into a back room to give Erica and I “gifts” to take with us — a LP, a torn poster, his employee’s Christmas stockings from last year. When he tries to give us a bottle of lighter fluid, we pass. Arms full of these little tokens of our night, we head back to our hotel on the other side of town.

As we drive home, late into the evening, Erica and I take it all in.

What an amazing night, we say to each other on repeat.

One meal, one little decision, changed our entire time in Omaha.

And, that, my friends, is the beauty of travel. And Omaha.

Editor’s Note: This post is a part of the #winosontheroad series. Over Yonderlust and d travels ’round went road tripping and exploring America from Colorado to Maryland in June 2012. Be sure to check out all of the posts of life on the open road.

Daily Wanderlust: The view from Hyatt Regency Chicago

After spending quite a few nights in dodgy hotels and motels on our road trip, checking into the Hyatt Regency Chicago was pure bliss.

A secure door! More than one bed! A clean bathroom! And, of course, all of the amazing amenities that fancy hotels in a big city have.

Perhaps the best part about our stay at the Hyatt Regency Chicago, other than the beds (and they were amazingly comfortable) was the view. We were fortunate to have a room on the 31st floor of the hotel, which is located a stone’s throw from Millennium Park. From our huge window, we could see the lake which stretched out into the horizon.

By night, when the city’s towering skyscrapers are lit up, looking out our window was nothing short of absolutely breathtaking.

 

Editor’s Note: This post is a part of the #winosontheroad series. Over Yonderlust and d travels ’round went road tripping and exploring America from Colorado to Maryland in June 2012. Be sure to check out all of the posts of life on the open road.

I was a guest of the Hyatt Regency during my stay, however all opinions are my own. If you have questions regarding this, please read my disclosure policy 

There’s more to Nebraska than flat roads

“Oh my god,” I moan, pounding my head against the steering wheel as Erica and I drive east towards Nebraska from Denver. “It’s flat … forever!”

I look towards the horizon and see nothing but straight road, surrounded by flat farmland as we progress away from the Rockies and towards America’s Bread Basket.

“This is going to suck,” I say, half under my breath.

I’ve done road trips across America twice already and one thing has remained consistent: the middle of America is one hell of a boring drive if sticking to the interstates.

Two lanes on each side. A few trucks. Lots and lots of flat land that give way to gentle rolling hills.

I’ve seen it on I-70. I’ve seen it on I-40. And now, I get to see the same, in all of its flat glory, on I-80.

Only, this time, Erica and I have a plan.

Well, a little plan.

We’re going to make it fun.

So, as I kick my left foot up against the dash and roll my eyes at the landscape, Erica pulls out her iPhone and we start to shoot video of our ramblings.

When, after hours of driving, we hit the Nebraska border, I pull over and we get out to celebrate at the Nebraska sign. We have a little photo shoot. [Note: if you want to see even more cool photos of our cross-country trip, check out Erica’s post that features some amazing pics from out the window of the car.]

Then, we hop back in the car until we see a place to stop to film a “must see” spot along side the road. As trucks whizz by, she and I treat ourselves to a little break from the monotony and have fun with our stop.

We giggle like teenagers at our own silliness. (Editor’s Note: I’m pretty sure only Erica and I find any of this funny, but still!)

Hey, whatever makes the trip fly by, right?

Outside, in the heat (hello, 100-plus degrees) and humidity (I’m so very sorry, hair), we notice the beauty around us.

Yes, the road may be flat, but within that flatness is a still and a calm. A piece of nearly untouched land that is home to roaming cows, fields that will soon spring to life, and views that, on a stormy day, must be nothing short of simply spectacular.

When we finally reach Paxton, Neb., the two of us, only on our first day of our trip, are achy. Hungry. Ready to go and see this little town that has earned itself a niche for one particular spot — Ole’s Big Game Steakhouse & Lounge.

As we roll through town in the Prius, we are greeted to a little snapshot of a simpler life where one main road crosses through fields. Where a gas station has painted on its side the offerings, including ammo.

“Oh my gosh,” we both say softly as we park the car on the side of the main road.

Across from Ole’s is a winery. It’s not open, but we press our faces to the glass, longing to try a pour of the Nebraska wine. Then, we cross back over to Ole’s and step inside and are instantly transported to another world.

The restaurant, known for one of the largest collections of taxidermy in the world, is dimly lit with a long bar dotted with stuffed ducks, birds and more. While I am not a fan of hunting for sport, and certainly got the creepy crawlies eating with these once-living mounted animals on the wall, I did appreciate where I was and the fact that not everyone agrees with my particular point of view.

Over a late lunch, we figure out a place to stay 300 miles down the road in Omaha, and book a hotel (Super 8) just outside of downtown.

And then, we are off … again. This time, into the Nebraska sunset, alive with glorious colors that dance off the fields of green.

Editor’s Note: This post is a part of the #winosontheroad series. Over Yonderlust and d travels ’round went road tripping and exploring America from Colorado to Maryland in June 2012. Be sure to check out all of the posts of life on the open road.

 

Daily Wanderlust: A gray morning in Klädesholmen, Sweden

Klädesholmen,Sweden is home not only to the Salt & Sill hotel, Sweden’s first floating hotel, but also breathtaking scenery.

This tiny town, which had a mere 325 residents in 2010, was particularly empty the day I wandered through. Even though it was May, the winter held its grip on this town longer than normal, resulting in overcast days threatening to spill rain from the large, puffy clouds. To explore the town, I simply walked through the hotel’s parking lot and up the one road into town.

The narrow lane wound its way through charming little homes with hand painted mailboxes, through quaint inlets where fishing boats rocked in the wind-whipped waters against a backdrop of granite outcroppings. Occasionally a car would pass by, heading out-of-town and back toward the main land, but for the most part it was just me and the morning.

Even with the gray clouds hanging in the air and the fat drops of rain plunking down from the sky, the walk through Klädesholmen treated me to a tiny peek at this village and its quiet spring morning.

The result? Angsty photos that tell the story of this little town on a chilly May day.

Editor’s Note: My time in Sweden is courtesy of Visit Sweden, however all opinions are my own. If you have questions regarding this, please read my disclosure policy. Want more on Sweden? Follow along in Twitter and Instagram, #myswedentrip.

Escape of the Week: Salt & Sill, Sweden’s first floating hotel

You can see it from the bridge over to Klädesholmen, the dark brown Salt & Sill hotel.

The Salt & Sill afloat

Floating. On large pontoons.

Without a doubt, it is one of the most unique hotels I have ever visited. Anywhere.

I drag my suitcase behind me as I walk into Salt & Sill’s reception, which gives way to the restaurant. A decade ago, this restaurant was the little spark that lead the owners, Susanna and Patrick Hermansson, to open the hotel arm of this popular hideaway.

Reception and restaurant entrance to the popular Salt & Sill

The main dining room

Restaurant Salt & Sill, known for its pickled herring courtesy of  the waters surrounding it, is the hotel’s original claim to fame. In fact, the hotel only opened a few years ago, following the enormous success of the restaurant. Today, the hotel offers cooking classes in a gorgeous kitchen overlooking the water, guiding participants in how to properly pickle this Swedish mainstay.

Six types of pickled herring served as one of the restaurant's main courses

Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, the restaurant serves up traditional Swedish dishes. In the mornings, when daylight washes into the light dining room, the buffet has homey touches, like handwritten tags on fresh-squeezed juices. At the restaurant, it is all about presentation.

And killer views.

While in the summer the hotel is filled with guests relishing the warm temperatures, late night sun, boating, swimming and fishing culture, it is open year-round. In the colder months, Salt & Sill is host to many business conferences.

The little touches

It’s the little attention to details that makes Salt & Sill so charming.

Each guest room at the Salt & Sill is adorned with a photo of a herb or spice native to the region. One color from that art is pulled and then woven throughout the room via blankets, colored frames around the television and more.

There are also the personal ladders that add a little touch of luxury to the property.

Even on this cloudy day, it is easy to imagine the summer sun beating down onto the boardwalk and cooling off in the waters outside the rooms. And, just beyond that … a floating sauna that guests can hire to cruise along the water.

My personal favorite? The glorious roof top deck above the hotel, complete with plenty of seating to watch that late night sunset sink down under the Gotenburg’s granite archipelago.

The bottom line: While all but one of the rooms features twin beds (the suite is the only room with a large bed), Salt & Sill is comfortable (albeit sparse) and nice. Wifi is quick and can be found throughout the property. I stayed there when the weather was not ideal, and no one was in the nearby town, so there was not much to do. However, in the summer, with the warm air and water temps, I can see this being a great place to unwind and enjoy the Swedish summer.

Want to try the hotel for yourself? Check out it’s Web site for more information.

Editor’s Note: My time in Sweden is courtesy of Visit Sweden, however all opinions are my own. If you have questions regarding this, please read my disclosure policy. Want more on Sweden? Follow along in Twitter and Instagram, #myswedentrip.

Daily Wanderlust: Outback South Australia

Editor’s Note: This is a guest post by Amanda Kendle.

Driving for hours and hours past not very much is not everyone’s idea of fun, but I love it. That’s lucky since I live in Australia, where many places are only reached via long and lonely highways, and we hold the record for the longest stretch of perfectly straight road in the world.

A few hours’ drive from Adelaide, in South Australia, you come across the Flinders Range National Park. It’s a combination of desert and low mountains with some incredible natural formations like Wilpena Pound thrown in.

The region’s not exactly overrun with other travelers but just the same, one of my favourite parts was out in the middle of nowhere, somewhere between Quorn and Hawker, pulling our camper up on the side of the road and staring out across the scrubby desert without another human in sight. Quite a few dead trees for company, though.

Daily Wanderlust: Louisville, Kentucky

Editor’s Note: This post is a part of the #winosontheroad series. Over Yonderlust and d travels ’round are road tripping and exploring America through June 27. Be sure to check out all of the posts of life on the open road.

The drive from Chicago to Louisville, Kentucky is quick. Relatively speaking.

From where we were staying in Hinsdale to the southern charm-filled Kentucky town, it only took about five hours — even with traffic from Chicago past Indianapolis.

Crossing over from Indiana to Kentucky greets drivers with a magnificent view of not only the Ohio River, but also the Louisville skyline.

Daily Wanderlust: Chicago’s Cloud Gate

Editor’s Note: This post is a part of the #winosontheroad series. Over Yonderlust and d travels ’round are road tripping and exploring America through June 27. Be sure to check out all of the posts of life on the open road.

I have seen it many times in photos, that iconic silver nugget located in Millennium Park in Downtown Chicago’s Loop community.

Formally, the name of this gigantic mass of metal is Cloud Gate. But, Chicagoans and its visitors have dubbed it a more fitting one –The Bean — for its similarity to said legume.

Designed by artist Anish Kapoor, Cloud Gate was built between 2004 and 2006 from 168 stainless steel plates.

Have you visited this popular spot in Chicago?

Do you like this photo of Cloud Gate? Want to see more shots from my road trip? Be sure to follow along on my Instagram — @dtravelsround — for an inside look at my travels and more!

Daily Wanderlust: The Gardens of Versailles

Editor’s Note: While I am preparing to leave Las Vegas, embark on an epic cross-country road trip exploring America and relocate to Thailand to become an expat, I have opened my blog to special guest posts from travel bloggers I love. This is a guest post written by Christine Medina.

Versailles’ intricate lawns and extensive flower-beds are stunning, but the farther away you get from the palace, the humbler the grounds get.

This tree-lined path caught my eye, and even though I went to Versailles, France, at the height of tourist season, there was no one to be found here.

In Marie Antoinette’s sprawling playground, I had carved out my own personal retreat from the mobs of fellow snap-happy tourists. Though the Versailles palace is a sight to behold, I think I found the real gem in the gardens.

Gardens of Versailles

Daily Wanderlust: Iowa from I-80

Editor’s Note: This post is a part of the #winosontheroad series. Over Yonderlust and d travels ’round are road tripping and exploring America through June 27. Be sure to check out all of the posts of life on the open road.

Nebraska may have been flat, but it was beautiful.

As I-80 goes on its epic straight track through Nebraska and Iowa, the scenery changes only slightly. Flat farms give way to fields with large crops growing in the early summer.

Puffy white clouds mingle against a bright blue sky. And, the green bursts of vegetation below only add to the inherent beauty this part of the world offers.

Sure, we may not have made any stops in Iowa en route to Chicago, but just looking out the window provided us with enough breathtaking moments to remind us America truly is one stunning country.