D Travels 'Round

5 ways to beat the Expat Funk

Just like hitting the Travel Funk, as an expat, I’ve come to learn, you hit the Expat Funk, too. Know what I’m talking about?

It’s that shitty feeling when you wake up in the morning and you can’t be asked to go about your daily routine. When the things you once found charming, like the slow-paced walking though the early morning market on the way to work, dodging motorbikes, staring at the moat and looking at the lights twinkle in the murky waters … when they all lose their charm. When the wide-eyed awesome you first felt dissolves and turns into … meh.

If you’re an expat living in one place for a long time and you haven’t felt that, congratulations.Continue reading “5 ways to beat the Expat Funk”

Don’t hold yourself back from achieving your dreams

That man on the plane

I boarded my flight from LAX to JFK and saw that I had an aisle seat on the last row. Soon after my plane neighbor arrived and grabbed the window seat.

“So, were you visiting LA, or do you live there?”.

Turned out his family was actually from Italy, but his parents moved to New York two years before he was born and he was now living in Santa Barbara with his (American) wife and kids.

Our conversation took off and we first got the typical questions out of the way: where did we live, what did we do for a living, did we have a partner, children, a house, a dog – no wait, I don’t think we asked anything about a dog.

Of course the man, let’s call him C., also wanted to know what I thought about Los Angeles.

I told him I’d absolutely loved it.Continue reading “Don’t hold yourself back from achieving your dreams”

Spring in Chiang Mai

I wake up and walk out of my air-conditioned room. I step into the teak upstairs of my home and am hit.

A blast of steam, of hot, humid air so powerful my cool flesh immediately begins to bead with sweat.

March in Chiang Mai.

Elephant Nature Park Spring — Not pictured: the steam rising up from my body.

Coming from the desert, I am well-equipped to deal with the heat. But the desert heat is a different kind of heat. A dry heat. I used to hate when people would tell me I was lucky to live in Vegas because at least the heat is dry, versus the humid and hot air of my hometown.

I would laugh.

“You think dry heat is better?” I would ask, rolling my eyes. “Let me tell you this. Go grab a hair dryer, put it on high, and tell me how you like that dry heat blowing in your face.”

Normally, the point came across quite quickly.

I thought coming to Chiang Mai, I would be able to deal with the humid summer. But, I didn’t realize what I was in for.

From February through June, it is hard not to melt from the heat. From the thick, sticky air. Temps soar into the 100s and there is no relief.

In Chiang Mai, there are very few places equipped with cooling systems. Suddenly, fans become the gospel. Little misters are moments of cool on a hot day.

And then, there is the burning.

Chiang Mai air quality during burning season — A look at Doi Suthep at the beginning and end of burning season. Photo courtesy: BoundingOverOurSteps.com

During the hottest time of the year in Chiang Mai, the rice fields are also glowing orange. The valley fills up with smoke, making visibility close to null. The air quality is crap, coughs become the norm, and masks to cover mouths from pollutants lingering in the air are the fashion statement of the season.

Do I like it?

Not really.

Do I tolerate it?

You bet.

After all, I live in an amazing city.

But, I do tell people who come here to skip the burning/summer season in Chiang Mai. Head south to the beaches. Unless you like that sort of thing. Then come on up, hang out with me and plop some ice in your beer … because that’s a great way to keep cool.

Koh Samui — A clear alternative to the burn and hot: island living.

What you need to know about “spring” in Thailand

What Westerners consider the spring months is actually Thailand’s summer. Here, schools close during these months and many make a mass exodus to the more temperate and cleaner air by the water.

If you are going to be in Chiang Mai (or anywhere other than the islands, really), be prepared for heat. At times unbearable heat. Heat that penetrates your every inch. Sweating dripping from every pore in your body. Thick, humid air that makes you long for air-conditioning and will send you into a 7-11 to cool off, even if just for a brief moment of air-con bliss.

There’s a reason why the high season in Thailand is November through early February — the temperature is pretty much perfect, minus some cold spells.

The SE Asia resource site, Travelfish, has plenty of detailed information which breaks up Thailand by region and gives you an idea of what to expect.

What to wear

Thailand is a more conservative culture, so for the ladies, that means skipping the booty shorts and barely there tank tops (or worse, the sheer shirts with a bikini top underneath) and opting for loose-fitting cotton shirts and light, breezy pants. Men, you have a little more freedom, but shorts and tee shirts are the best way to go.

If you’re going to be on the road a lot via motorbike or bicycle, purchase a filtered mask to protect your lungs when the burning really gets going.

Beating the heat

Since air-conditioning isn’t widely spread, minus guest houses, there are few chances to really cool down. Fans can help (especially if you soak a towel in water and then place it on the fan), but for those who are used to cranking the AC, it will cost more money to get a room in a guest house or hotel with the beautiful cold air.

Turn off the water heater. Because the water tanks heat up as the day progresses, take a shower in the morning when it is at its coolest.

Songkran in Chiang Mai — Nothing says “cool” like icy streams of water during Songkran

Be in Chiang Mai for Songkran. The icy buckets of water can send momentary chills and relief from the heat.

Baby powder is you’re friend. While you will still sweat, picking up some of the cooling baby powder can help cut it down and cool you off at least a little bit.

Have you survived a “spring” in Thailand? What were your experiences?

Daily Wanderlust: the streets of Bangkok

Despite the protests and travel warnings coming from many countries about Bangkok, I headed down south to the capital the other day for some family time.

As someone who comes to the city quite regularly — mostly for work since I have yet to really fall in love with what other see from this massive sprawl of skyscrapers and elevated highways and trains — there wasn’t much different, even with the political turmoil.

The same little street stalls crowded the sidewalks, the same trains rushed back and forth, packed with people … nothing really seemed different.

Until I heard the booming voice over a speaker. A protest. And, until I saw a large tent city erected by the water. And, the massive traffic that was pretty much halted on Sukhumvit.

Did I ever feel like my life was in danger? Nope. Not once.

Did I go near the protests? Not a chance.

But, would I return to Bangkok, even with what is going on? Absolutely.

There’s something about escaping from Chiang Mai and being in a big city that sends my blood pulsing and opens my eyes to wonder … and reminds me life exists very differently in other parts of Thailand.

This traffic? I’ve never seen anything like it in Chiang Mai!

Daily Wanderlust: Downtown Frostburg

The Western Maryland college town of Frostburg charms me every time I go. It’s not just because my artist brother (M Edelman Art) lives there, but because the town is so quirky and teeny tiny (population in 2010 was just a smidgen over 9,000). Tucked into the Appalachians, the scenery is simply stunning with gentle mountains dotted with homes.

Downtown Frostburg, which began to pop up in the late 1800s, still holds tight to an historic vibe. Its easy to stroll Main Street and have the ghosts of the past walk by my side. And, I love that.

The historic Failingers Hotel Gunter was built in 1896. Unique to the property was a jail and a cock-fighting arena, and later a speakeasy during the Prohibition Era.

The things missed as an expat

The grass is always greener. Oh, the age old quote (is it a quote?) will always ring true. Regardless of where in the world I am.

Why?

Well … even as an expat, there are times I long for some of the things I miss from my American life.

Privacy

I felt the need for privacy more so when I lived in an apartment and everyone could see my comings and goings. But, even now, privacy is difficult to achieve in my life as an expat in Chiang Mai. Walking down the street, more times than not, I see someone I know. It’s always nice to see people, but sometimes I just don’t want to be bothered. Sometimes, I want to have a bad day, or not smile, without everyone knowing about it.

Living in Vegas, it was easy to hide out. To escape from people. To be intensely private when necessary. Sure, Vegas is a small enough town where heading out to Town Square likely means running into someone, but it is far easier to avoid people there than it is here.

Home-cooked meals

Granted, I am not a cook, but I do miss the ease of being able to run to the grocery store, know exactly what I need and find it, then go home and pop it in the oven. Here? Well, if I know by photo what I want and use my translate app, I can sometimes find what I need. But, more often than not, I get frustrated and head out for street food instead. Oh, and while we are talking about food — dammit, I miss real chips and salsa. And Papa John’s garlic sauce. Don’t judge.

My family

This goes without saying, but I dream about Mom Hugs. The family I have created here is wonderful and supportive, but nothing can ground me more than time with my real family. Nothing can erase Sad or Lonely more than my family can. And, with them so far away, it can get difficult. Often times, I find myself losing perspective and only an e-mail from my mom can make that dissipate. Friendships as an expat are not always easy, and there are definitely moments when I just miss comfort only my family can provide.

The ease of communication

Language barriers aside, there are communication issues that make life here interesting at best and a struggle at worst. It is important to keep in mind my Western ideas and ways of communicating are not the same as the Thai way. I haven’t had huge problems with it, but there are moments when I wish I could express myself better … or at all. A smile goes a long way here, but even that can be misinterpreted.

Shopping/buying what I need

There is nothing worse than knowing I want to go and buy, say, a cleaning agent to wipe my counters with, and knowing what it is called in America, knowing what is should look like, and then hitting a store here and being totally unsure of what it is I am actually buying. Here, what I would imagine to be in a pretty little plastic spray bottle comes in a squishy cardboard container with a screw-off top. It’s got a photo on it — sometimes — but hell if I know what is actually is I am buying. Case-in-point: I purchased a bottle of shampoo, thinking it was deodorant. Yeah. No. Clue.

Clothing that fits

And, while we are on the topic of shopping, let’s talk style. Clothing. Good grief, it is hard being a not rail thin woman to get any sort of cute clothing here. Or being super size-shamed. In America, I’m a medium, in Chiang Mai? Oh, 2XL. I can’t shop at department stores because my legs cannot squeeze through pant legs. Shirts? Ha ha. Not with these American boobs.

Sometimes, I find myself longing for a Dillard’s. Sweet, normal-sized clothing-filled Dillard’s.

Thankfully, I have Thai friends who can help me navigate the flowery Thai writing to determine some items I need. Others? Well, that’s when I enlist my friends and family to bring stuff over like Febreeze or a pair of size 10 Old Navy jeans.

A car … sometimes

When I sold my Prius back in 2012, it was freeing. And, in true D form, a bit dramatic. Living in Chiang Mai, I don’t need a car. I often don’t even get in cars as most of my friends simply have little motorbikes to zip down sois with. But, seeing as I am far too chicken/know myself well enough, I don’t drive bikes, and since the traffic here scares the crap out of me, I won’t ride a bicycle either. Every now and then I long to be able to just grab keys and hop in a car and go explore.

There are so many little towns and villages and places around Chiang Mai that I have yet to tackle largely because transportation isn’t easy. Sure, I could take a songthaew, but I love to look out the windows and see life whirl by.

A good haircut

I was a hair snob in my former life. Hair. Snob. Every six weeks, I’d go and get my split ends trimmed, my roots touched up. Here? No. Way. I’ve gotten my hair cut four times since I became an expat. The first was a simple bang job, which resulted in a thick splay of bangs running parallel across my face. The second in Cambodia where I chopped it off and ended up with a mushroom head; the third was to fix that; the fourth was at an expensive more Western salon in Bangkok, which took off inches (at my request). However, when I returned to the States in September, my go-to stylist wanted to take a “before” photo to show me just how wrecked the cut actually was.

Clean feet

Living in a jungle climate has it advantages. The weather (except in the winter for a few brief weeks) is always warm/hot which means most days make me smile. It’s all wonderful — except my feet. My poor, poor feet. Because of the heat, wearing shoes and socks is normally a big, fat no. Therefore, I wear Crocs (yes, Crocs) or flip flops. The result? A constant layer of black on my feet. Dirty feet, that even a pedicure cannot fix. Although, trust me, I try.

Diverse weather

I live in the jungle. We get cold (on occasion), hot and rainy. When I get to wear long sleeves here, I relish it. I look on Facebook at feeds of those living in America or Europe and get a tinge of homesickness when I see people bundled up in the winter … wearing light airy clothing in the spring …

Men

Being a western girl in an Asian world is not easy. The Asian men normally don’t look twice, the western men are interested in the Asian women. Where does that leave me? Perpetually single and most likely, rolling my eyes at the ridiculous antics I am witness here on a daily basis. More about this coming soon. So, for now you’ve got a teaser.

Are you an expat? What do you miss about life as a non-expat? Be sure to leave your comment below!

Preparing for Songkran

Editor’s note: This post is written and provided by Momondo.

Songkran is the celebration of the Thai New Year and it’s essentially a three-day, country-wide water fight. While this festival is often a place for visitors to come and participate in the revelry, there is more to the festivities than New Year’s celebrations: statues of Buddha are washed and cleaned, and temples and homes are purified.

Of course, getting through Songkran can be a challenge, but if you’re well prepared, you’ll have a great time. Preparation is key of course, so here are a few tips to help with your arrangements.

What exactly happens during Songkran? Should I be worried?

Songkran can be very overwhelming. Thousands of people gathered in the streets throwing buckets of water and powder at each other – the thought is unsettling – but there’s no need to be worried! The festival is about purification, and the country has a very convivial atmosphere. Be prepared to get drenched and don’t be surprised if people offer to wash your hands, it’s a friendly gesture.

Of course when you give people buckets of water, water guns and hoses, things can get out of hand – especially in places where there are a lot of travellers. Just keep an eye out – though not too wide or you might end up with talc in it!

Which cities should I go to?

Songkran is celebrated among several communities across Thailand and choosing your city depends on the experience you’re looking for.

There are famous (infamous?) Songkran cities, like Chiang Mai and Bangkok, where you will have colourful parades and thousands of people on trucks throwing buckets of water at each other.

Alternatively, cities like Nong Khai and Khon Kaen have smaller celebrations and more of an emphasis on the tradition with folk plays and food fairs.

It’s up to you to decide where you would spend Songkran, though another option would be to visit a few places since they are held on different days in some cities!

How should I prepare? What should I bring?

You will be soaked. Accept it. Thailand is really hot at that time of year so you won’t be cold or anything. Keep a stock of balloons, water guns and buckets – though you will find stalls on the roadsides that sell these things.

Be mindful of the clothes you bring with you. Don’t pack Prada unless you intend on wearing a waterproof jacket the entire time – and even then…

Wear comfortable shoes that dry quickly. Cheap flip-flops aren’t the greatest idea – you’ll feel quite sorry when they break and you have to run around the streets of Bangkok barefoot! Wear waterproof sunscreen – it’s hot out there.

What should I not bring?

Leave your personal belongings in your hotel if you don’t want them wet. Cell phones, cameras, iPads … they’re all better left in your room. Of course, if you really want photos, investing in a waterproof cover and lens protector is a sensible idea.

If you’re planning a trip to Songkran, check out flight comparison website momondo – they’ll help you find excellent value flights to Bangkok!

Happy Songkran!

Daily Wanderlust: the glitz of Fremont Street in Vegas

The now burgeoning Downtown Las Vegas has always been a favorite spot of mine. Throughout my time in Sin City, I have spent many a night (and day) hanging in a place where old clashes with new, young clash with old, in the most colorful of ways.

One thing I never get tired of? The neon lights of Fremont Street. While the rest of Vegas opts for less flashy, I love the tacky, bright way Old Vegas sticks in my mind … well after my life in Vegas has wrapped.

Daily Wanderlust: Alhambra, Granada

Somewhere between the sweet hookah smell drifting through the market and the quaint streets, I fell in love with the magical Andalusian town of Granada.

In the rain, my friend and I hike up the hill to explore the historic remains of the Alhambra. Originally constructed as a fortress in 889 and rebuilt in the 11th century, today it is easy to get lost in the touches that make it feel like time has been left to a standstill here.

Courtyards overflowing with flowers, tiny pathways leading visitors to spectacular views and buildings that have withstood the spinning of the world. It’s breathtaking and overwhelming at the same time. And, most definitely, absolutely gorgeous.

The “Get F*cked Up Lifestyle” of a traveler: more harm than good?

I’m no angel. Hell, I don’t even come close. I’ve done my fair share of partying all over the world. But, today I saw the new Matador book that was released “101 Places to Get F*cked Up Before You Die” and it made me think about the stereotypes of backpackers and travelers.

I’ve written for Matador. I have friends who have been editors there. I love the site and most of the articles, but the idea behind this book struck a chord with me.

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“101 Places to Get F*cked Up Before You Die is the only travel guide that could possibly help adventure seekers and world-trekking party-goers take their experience to a whole new high (or low). So, raise a glass, hop a flight, and join 101 Places’ professional party-crashers as they breach security, ride ill-recommended ferries, and hike miles into the wilderness all in search of the best parties in the world.”

Encouraging breaching security? Putting lives in jeopardy? Hiking into the wilderness to a party (which makes me think of all of the environmental damage something like that does)?

What kind of message is being sent to travelers? What kind of message is being sent to locals who often welcome visitors with open arms?

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As I have grown and traveled, I have seen a lot of things. Beautiful things. Gorgeous places. And then, there is the dirty, sleazy side of travel.

Drunken fights. Sloppy hookups. Pissed pants. Vomit-covered shirts. ODs. Obnoxious, arrogant behavior that is disrespectful to the places being visited.

Living in Chiang Mai, I am witness to grotesque displays of partying. Partying that would humiliate the people guilty … if they could remember it. I’ve seen bottle breaks, abuse, falling-over-drunk people who think nothing of it. Let me say this: it gives the entire lot of backpackers a horrific stereotype. It furthers the idea that we are only interested in getting wasted. That we all are irresponsible. And, that really bothers me.

During my long-term travels, I cannot count how many times I was ashamed to be associated with other people who had no idea what was considerate, no idea what was appropriate. People who were all-out dicks.

I have not read the book, so I cannot comment on its innards, and I am sure the writing is spectacular, but the title alone suggests to me that the sole idea of traveling to far off places isn’t to see but to be so drunk, so drugged, that the days are spent laying in bed with an all-mighty hangover.

Like I stated, I’m no angel. I’ve done St. Patrick’s Day in Ireland. I’ve explored the nightlife in Budapest. I’ve hung in the coffee shops in Amsterdam. But, my goal in visiting these places wasn’t to get crunked, it was because I wanted to experience the cities. Sure, some of that comes with a party … but not all of it. I don’t encourage people to go and explore the world with the goal of partying their asses off.

Yes, I encourage living. Yes, I encourage experiencing. But, I don’t cheer people on to drop that tab of acid at a Full Moon Party or drink the “exotic” cocktails on Koh Phi Phi (where, coincidentally, two girls were getting f*cked up and later died because of it). I don’t condone being so intoxicated you wake up on a street somewhere, stripped of your belongings, because, hey, if you are that hammered, there is always a chance of that.

Don’t get me wrong — I am not slamming Matador — but it makes me wonder: does a book like this perpetuate the idea that backpackers are irresponsible travelers? Partiers who take in a city based on shots and nightlife instead of visiting a place for all of the other things it has to offer? Does it do more harm than good to suggest that the way to see a place is through beer goggles?