The battle for hope in Hebron: the dual narrative tour

A loud bang permeates the air, reverberating through the empty spaces in the crowded desert city.

Hebron 2 in Hebron

We jump, but not too much.

A few hours earlier, our group of 13 had been warned in the afternoons that Palestinian protestors often take to the streets, and, in response, the Israeli army will fire something which emits a loud noise (our guide calls it a “sound grenade”) to back them off.

When the noise pierces the air, it doesn’t phase us; but it does phase our tour guide, Lena, who is Palestinian.

“OK, now I am scared, so we are going to leave and get you back over to the other side,” she says, hurrying us out of the heart of Hebron, one of the holiest cities in Middle East, through a gate, and back into the deserted Al-Shuhada Street.

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Confessions of a Croc Addict

My name is Diana and I have a dirty little secret: I wear Crocs. Nay, I am obsessed with Crocs. They are my favorite shoes. On the planet.

Maya Shopping Mall
Maya Shopping Mall: home to one of the many Croc stores in town.

Sometimes, when I have nothing to do, I will take a songthaew up to one of the shopping malls and find the Crocs store and just stare, drooling, at the plethora of the rubbery cushions of bliss hanging from the wall.

There was a time, not long ago, when I swore up and down and sideways and backwards and any other direction possible I would never, ever, ever wear those hole-y, vile-looking clog things. Not at home. And most certainly not in public.

Then, Thailand happened.

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Where to stay in Jerusalem: Abraham Hostel

When it comes to hostels, I tend to think bigger isn’t better. Why? Well, in my experience, the more people crammed into hostels, the more chances of loud, obnoxiousness (although those travelers can be found everywhere, regardless), and a less safe vibe. Before arriving to Israel, I had planned on staying at Abraham Hostel, despite the 250 (!) bed count.

As far as hostels go, Abraham Hostel is one of the bigger hostels I have ever stayed at.

But, Abraham Hostel, located near the heart of the action and a 20-minute walk from the Old City of Jerusalem, isn’t like those other big-bed hostels. At all.

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Behind the wall of Bethlehem

behind the wall of bethlehem and the israel palestine conflict

We see it before we even “arrive” to Bethlehem, a massive, concrete wall spanning as far as the eye can see, rolling up and down hills and into the horizon. On top of the wall rest lookout towers, barbed wire and remote-controlled machine guns.

As I pull the rental car I am driving up to the turn-off for the checkpoint, I am told I can’t drive into the town, I have to leave my car here. On this side of the barrier between two worlds.

So, I do.

Cody, Giselle and I leave the car, and when we cross through the metal detectors and a maze of walkways leading from freedom to another, reality hits me. Hard.

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Budget digs in Tel Aviv: Gordon Inn

Gordon Inn, from the outside, is quite easy to miss. It’s just off of the major Ben Yehuda Street in Tel Aviv, and aside from a sign at the entrance and a little balcony, people can walk right by it.

I did.

However, while it may seem almost invisible from the outside, the inside of this hostel is another story. Sure, it is in an older building, which means no elevator and for those carrying anything but a backpack, it can be a pain in the ass (I had my Kelty, so this rang true), but that isn’t a reason to not book at this cozy hostel.

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Driving in Israel

I tentatively press my foot on the gas in the black Mazda.

Oh so tentatively.

“Oh my god,” I saw to Giselle and Cody, who somehow have agreed to be willing participants in the Great Israeli Driving Experience (which I totally just made up). “I cannot believe we are renting a car. I cannot believe I am driving in Israel!”

And with that, I grip the steering wheel tight and pull out onto the little side road off of Hayarkon and the Budget Rental Car garage (although it really is more like an underground area with a few parking spots) and out into the gorgeous and happy Tel Aviv afternoon.

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Airport security and Israel

I’ve been to Israel three times now — twice in the span of one year. Other than getting asked if it is safe to travel there (yes, it is and a blog post is coming), I get asked about the interrogation process entering and leaving the country.

A Hebrew sign in Tel Aviv

If you’re planning a trip to Israel, there are a few things to keep in mind upon before arrival and departures:

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The sexy Sofitel So Bangkok

Throughout the years, I’ve amassed quite a list of hotels where I’ve rested my head during travels. Some have been good, some have been fabulous and one … one … has earned the coveted position of “best hotel.”

Sofitel SO water room
A room with a view

What property gets to claim this?

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Returning to the world of solo travel

I step into my salmon pink room at Affittacamere alls Stazione where the smell of stale smoke lingers and am brought back to another time along the shore of the Adriatic Sea. Apparently, the only person in this little guest house tucked into the third floor 150 meters from the train station, I am thankful for the piercing sound of silence, only marred by the creaking of the wood floor as the owner herself likely prepares for sleep.

Affittacamere alla Stazione

It’s been a long day traveling from Israel. An emotional day. And I am exhausted from travel and thinking and thinking some more. I’m angry at the cigarette I smoked, but there is this rapid fire going off in my brain as I tried to reason my life out over pasta and red wine on the patio of a cafe at the Milan train station … tried to recall the excitement I used to have for hitting the world by myself. Knowing I would not succumb again, I gave in and let the foul taste hit my tongue, then the smoke dance into my lungs. I just stared at the impostor perched between my pointer and middle finger.

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Responsible tourism twitter chat: what you need to know

“Responsible tourism” isn’t just the latest catch phrase in the travel universe. These two words are slowly changing the way people travel. With more attention being placed on the environment, people and animals, a shift is beginning to be made towards a more responsible, more ethical way to see the world.

Lucky elephant
Lucky, a blind elephant rescued from the circus in Thailand, takes her first steps toward freedom at Elephant Nature Park, a sanctuary for pachyderms outside of Chiang Mai, Thailand

Recently, both STA and Intrepid announced they would no longer offer elephant rides as a part of their tour packages — a major coup for people like me whose goal is to help protect these majestic creatures, but also to educate people on the truth about elephant (and other animals) involved in tourism. But, responsible tourism stretches far beyond just elephants. It is everywhere, and now, each week, there will be a chat on Twitter to help educate others regarding how to be more responsible, but also to share their stories and more.Continue reading “Responsible tourism twitter chat: what you need to know”